“Big-bottomed” ants, a Colombian delicacy named for their appearance, are reputed to be a powerful aphrodisiac. But the insects are harder to buy recently since fewer people are hunting them, even despite their $25 per pound selling price. First, collectors have to be sure they only collect the female of the species, not the male, which are known as “fatheads”, named after their somewhat different appearance. Not only are the males not an aphrodisiac, but they are aggressive fighters. “They can hang on to anything,” one ant hunter said. “If they crawl up your leg, they bite your testicles. You can imagine the pain.”

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