It was in the Anchor Bar, Buffalo, New York in 1964 that the first Buffalo wings were served. A perfect example of simple ingredients combined to create a sublime dish, which is now famous throughout the world. And like many such dishes, the humble but perfect wing has been much abused; by chefs ignorant of its “secrets” or the maxim: If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

For the perfect, original buffalo wing is indeed a simple thing, so simple that it barely deserves to be called a recipe. It is more a method, really.

Cut the wings at the joints. Discard the tips. Deep-fry them until they are crispy. Toss them in a sauce made of clarified butter and Franks Hot sauce.

Please note: Buffalo wings are not breaded or battered; there is no mention of barbecue sauce, nor Cajun spices.

Now, that is not to say one may not eat barbecued chicken wings, or breaded wings in a Mexican style, roux based chilli sauce. This actually happened to me in New Jersey. But please, DON'T CALL THEM BUFFALO WINGS!

Of course Frank's Hot Sauce is not readily available in some grocery stores, but there are many acceptable substitutes. Tabasco works well, although may be a little hot for some, and most supermarkets carry something similar. Keep trying until you find the one that's right for you. Harrissa, which can be found in any of the Middle Eastern shops, adds a welcome touch of garlic as well as heat. If you really need to put a damper on the chilli fire, roast and peel a red pepper and puree it with a little vinegar.

Celery sticks and blue cheese, crumbled into sour cream with a little mayonnaise are the classic accompaniment.
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