The Fashion Responsibility Report, published in March 2024 by Remake, a nonprofit organization based in the United States, provided a detailed analysis of the sustainability practices of 52 major fashion companies. With an average accountability score of just 14 out of a possible 150 points, the industry's shortcomings signal a need for systemic change to align with modern sustainability goals.

Remake's report evaluates brands with annual revenues exceeding $100 million across six key areas: traceability, worker wages and well-being, commercial practices, raw materials, governance, and environmental justice. The 2024 report indicates that industry accountability remains stagnant, with an average score of 14 points, the same as last year's results.

'That is pretty dismal when you consider that there are a total of 150 possible points and the climate crisis is upon us,' the report stated, underscoring the urgency of meaningful change.

The report also showed that while some companies take small steps in sustainability, significant areas continue to lag. For example, wages and well-being scored just two out of 23 possible points, while governance averaged only three out of 42 points. Critical for transparency, traceability remained at a dismal one out of eight points. Even categories that showed minor improvements, such as raw materials (three out of 20 points) and environmental justice (five out of 42 points), highlight a broader 'great stagnation' in the industry's sustainable ambitions.

Fanshawe College professor in fashion marketing and management, Debbie Trotechaud, shed light on these industry dynamics in her classroom, focusing on educating future fashion professionals about the social and environmental implications of the industry's practices. Through initiatives like Fanshawe's pop-up event, The Story, where students partner with Goodwill to curate and upcycle clothing, Trotechaud challenges students to rethink the fashion consumption model.

'It's important for students to understand that being in fashion doesn't mean you can't be sustainable,' Trotechaud explained. 'This project makes students think about what they're buying and why, encouraging a shift from a consumption mindset to a mindful approach.'

The Story has evolved into an annual experiential learning opportunity for Fanshawe students. They work alongside Goodwill to curate collections of second-hand clothing, emphasizing sustainability through upcycling, resale, and the broader ethical implications of fashion production and marketing.

'By selling second-hand clothing, it offers that opportunity to get the students that perhaps would never shop second-hand,' Trotechaud noted. 'It's really important for students to have an understanding of being able to be in fashion and shopping second-hand.'

One notable challenge of this shift toward sustainability is fast fashion's impact on consumer habits. Brands like Zara, H&M, and Shein have popularized the 'see now, buy now' culture, encouraging consumers to purchase the latest styles at affordable prices. However, these low costs come with a high environmental price tag.

'We used to have just two major seasons in fashion–fall/winter and spring/summer,' Trotechaud said, adding that companies now release new styles almost weekly, pushing a constant need for novelty. 'It's affecting how we look at clothing as disposable. We consume more because we think we can afford it, but it's unsustainable for the planet.'

The report also highlighted gaps in circularity, which refers to the effort to establish a closed-loop system that prioritizes product reuse and minimizes waste. Although some companies have started resale initiatives or repair services, very few show how these efforts can replace, rather than merely coexist alongside, the production of new goods. Without a significant shift towards circularity, the industry's initiatives may remain superficial.

'If production continues to grow, 'better' material choices alone won't reduce fashion's environmental footprint,' the report noted.

The pop-up shop initiative at Fanshawe College focuses on giving students a practical understanding of sustainable fashion.

'By collaborating with Goodwill, we're helping students learn not only how to create appealing displays and make thoughtful selections but also how to consider the impact of their choices,' Trotechaud explained.

Trotechaud also noted the role of economic factors in shaping consumption patterns.

'Fast fashion is popular because it's affordable,' she said. 'Most people don't have the money to spend on luxury goods, and fast fashion fills that gap.'

However, the lower prices come at a cost, particularly in quality. As Trotechaud points out, many fast-fashion items are not made to last, leading to even more waste.

'When we buy cheap clothes that quickly lose appeal or durability, we're contributing to the waste cycle,' she said.

This disconnect between fast fashion's affordability and environmental impact reflects one of the biggest challenges in fostering a sustainable fashion industry. Remake's report highlights that just four per cent of companies use biogenic materials in a way that aligns with sustainability goals, while only six per cent are actively reducing the use of oil-based synthetics. With transparency and material sourcing as significant pain points, the need for a shift in consumer habits is crucial.

For Trotechaud, the ultimate goal is influencing how students think about fashion and consumption.

'So, this project is close to my heart. I like this event because it's my way of trying to change the way. The way students think, the way we think. Do you need another pair of black pants or another black T-shirt? It just makes us stop and think. And if we can slow it down, I'm happy, ' she said.